From the Pacific to the Rockies: A Journey through Western Canada
The Canadian Provinces of British Colombia and Alberta have some of the world’s most beautiful and unspoiled nature. Visitors come here at any time of the year, including the harsh winter, to appreciate the snow-capped mountains, giant forests and scenic ferry rides in the ocean. Beyond nature, there are thriving cities built on a blend of Indigenous and settler history, a large international population and some of the most polite people on the planet.
Canada is vast. It s the second largest country in the world. The Eastern Maritime provinces are famous for their fish and lobster, Celtic influence and beautiful lighthouses that facilitated trade within the Atlantic. In the White North, the sparsely-inhabited land borders the arctic circle, with tough winters and autonomous First Nations communities whose traditions live on to this day. The central cities of Montreal and Toronto are some of the largest in North America and are the economic engine of the country. The administrative capital is the quiet city of Ottawa, and not too far is Canada’s most visited natural landmark: The Niagara Falls. From there, it is flat farmland spread across the region known as the Prairies until the topography dramatically becomes more mountainous to the west. Depending on the mode of transport, it could take months to a year to explore every corner of this enormous country.
For first-time visitors to Canada with less time to spare, it is the west that packs the most beauty, adventure and diversity within a reasonable distance. A comprehensive trip itinerary can be divided as follows:
· Vancouver: 5 days
· Victoria: 2 days
· Calgary: 3 days
· Banff: 2 days
Vancouver: Gleaming Multicultural Metropolis
Vancouver, the largest city in the Province of British Columbia, is a city that I know very lived. I have lived here for the biggest chunk of my adolescent life and young adulthood. After graduation in 2010, I left Vancouver, only to return 10 years later during the peak of the pandemic to be reunited with family. From then on, it was my home for another 3 years. Having returned after the 2010 Winter Olympics, I noticed how the city has grown since then.
As per statistics, Vancouver consistently ranks among one of the most desirable places to live. Visitors really admire the nature here and how well it blends in with the city. Those who live here on a permanent basis, however, experience challenges different to those living here on a full-time basis: mainly associated the very high cost of living. Despite its beauty, Vancouver also does harbor a dark underbelly, and has recently experienced an uptake in street crime. Still, one cannot discredit Vancouver’s beauty and unique culture, primarily influenced by Asian Immigration. Here, you can have some of the best Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai and Indian food in the world.
For those arriving into Vancouver by plane, the international airport is located in the suburb municipality of Richmond. From there, there is a direct metro line that goes directly to Vancouver’s City Center. The Skytrain system is an affordable and reliable way to get around. A taxi from the airport to downtown Vancouver usually costs somewhere in the $40-50 CAD range (including tips, which usually start at 15-20% percent).
Vancouver enjoys a relatively mild climate, which makes it particularly attractive for people around the country and entire world to move to. The Ocean breeze adds a cooling effect in the summer, and the city barely gets snow in the winter. On the downside, this part of North America is the rainiest, with winters receiving rain almost on a daily basis. The temperature may not reach below 0C for more than a week, but it’s the damp kind of cold that hits the bones. Autumn is crisp and pleasant and cherry blossom trees can be found in random parts of the city, turning a beautiful pink in springtime.
Vancouver, and Canada in general, is not a budget-friendly destination. Visitors are often put of by the high amount of taxation on shopping and restaurants, hotel rates are high for mediocre accommodation, tipping is expected by service staff and airline travel within the country is also pricey – mainly due to the lack of variety and competition among local airlines. If planned well, and visited due less busy months, travelers can save some money on their travel costs.
Most hotels in Vancouver are located in the downtown core, notably around Robson, Burrard and Georgia street. Rates typically start at $150 during low season and can easily reach over $300 on holidays and during the summer. A meal at a mid-range restaurant for one person will typically cost in the $30-$40 area. Downtown Vancouver is easily walkable, and one can reach one end to another within about a 30-minute walk.
Each street and distict has something unqiue to offer. Robson Street is the city’s main shopping store, with large chain stores and local brands such as Lululemon and Roots. The clothing and fashion stores cover about 5 street blocks. Robson Street is also where you will find the Vancouver Art Gallery, with temporary exhibitions and permanent collections. The most famous rooms in the museum are dedicated to the paintings of celebrating Canadian artist Emily Carr. Her work is inspired by the forests and coastal landscapes of British Columbia, as well as the villages and totem poles of First Nations communities. Educated in France, Carr century and was seen as a revolutionary painter and highly emancipated women during her lifetime.
Just outside the Vancouver Art Gallery is Robson Plaza and the šxʷƛ̓ənəq Xwtl'e7énḵ Square. It is a public space for civic engagement and participation. Many protests and public installations of art take place here. Throughout the recent years, there have been more investigation into Canada’s dark past, particularly the mistreatment of its First Nations community, consisting of Indigenous, Metis and Inuit Canadians. The square has been turned into a place of public reconciliation and where human stories can be shared. Times have changed, and Canada’s original inhabitants have successfully claimed more sovereignty and inclusion in mainstream life, with more progress to be made. The National Day of Truth and Reconciliation is a public holiday held on September 30th of each year.
A few blocks nort of Robson Plaza is the glitzy Coal Harbor neighborhood, with shiny skyscrapers overlooking the marina. The bigger cruise ships on a Pacific Northwest trail between Seattle and Alaska dock at the port nearby. Here you will find a mix of upscale and casual eateries, with breathtaking mountain views along the seaside. Owing to its large Asian community, and having been settled by a sizeable Japanese community since the 19th century, Vancouver is one of the best places to eat sushi in the world.
If you had to narrow down your options to one upscale dining experience in Vancouver, it would have to be Miku in Coal Harbor. Recommended by Michelin, this sushi eatery offers sustainably-sourced fresh seafood with a beautiful presentation. The food at Miku is prepared by the best Japanese chefs and specializes in aburri-style sushi, as well as other signature dishes. There is also a cocktail bar and private dining area. You can choose between a set menu or order a la carte. The prices here are on the higher end, but that is not a deterrent for visitors and locals since it’s impossible to get a table without prior reservation.
To the east of Coal Harbor are Vancouver’s main historical districts of Chinatown and Gastown. People of Chinese descent comprise about 20% of Vancouver’s population. The first wave of immigration started in the age of the Gold Rush, and Chinese migrant workers were recruited to build expand Canada’s national railway in the late 1800s. Most of them settled in the area near that docks, that would later become Canada’s largest Chinatown. Over the next century, the community faced hostility and discrimination, with restrictive laws and occasional riots breaking out. At the Chinese Canadian Museum, visitors can learn more about the community that has been crucial to the urban and societal development of Vancouver and the struggles it took for them to gain a seat at the table.
Vancouver’s Chinatown has many unique cultural delights, with family-run Dim sum restaurants and grocery stores selling ingredients and traditional medicines imported directly from China, to souvenir shops selling lanterns and decorative porcelain. If your visit to Vancouver around Lunar New Year, Chinatown throws a big parade that draws in tens of thousands of spectators. There’s also the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, styled after the traditional parks of Suzhou with elements of Feng shui and Taoist philosophy.
Chinatown has housed Chinese Vancouverites for multiple generations but has declined in population in recent years as many families moved outside the district and into suburb and areas such as Richmond. Local activists and community organizers have been working on keeping Chinatown’s heritage and unique character intact in the face of gentrification. There are signs some signs of decay and neglect in the neighborhood, but many remain hopeful of the future.
Sandwiched in between Chinatown and Gastown is Hastings Street. In Canada, Hastings Street is synonymous with homelessness, open drug use, street crime and derelict buildings turned into single-use occupancy units. It is often referred to as ‘Canadian’s Poorest Postal Code’.
First-time visitors to Vancouver’s Downtown Eastside are often shocked by the level of misery out on full display, especially considering Hasting Street’s proximity to the urban core, historical districts and tourist sites. Despite social programs and efforts to address addiction and mental health, the contrast between the haves and have-nots in Vancouver is very stark. Hastings Street is a very sad place and is best avoided for those visiting with children or emotionally volatile people.
Gastown is the oldest part of the city, with cobblestone streets and an Edwardian architectural style inspired by the streets of Britain. The low-rise buildings have been converted into lofts, with art galleries, fashion boutiques and trendy restaurants throughout. At the intersection of Water Street and Cambie Street, tourists gather to take videos of the Gastown Steam Clock. Powered by steam, this antique-looking clock whistles every quarter-hour to indicate the time. A white cloud forms as steam is released by the clock. For lovers of craft beer, Vancouver is full of microbreweries with artisanal methods used to make a rich variety of lagers, pilsners and Pale Ale. The Steamworks Brewery, just behind the clock, is the perfect place to stop for a pint while on walking around the city’s landmarks.
Vancouver’s beauty lies in the surrounding topography, the cleanliness of its streets, and the many parks that blend in with its modern skyline. In the Downtown Westend, Stanley Park is one of the largest urban parks in North America. It covers an area of 405 hectares, with a seawall, hiking trails and hidden lagoons. There are several attractions at Stanley Park, including an aquarium, totem poles, swimming pool and even a family-friendly train that circles a 2km rail over a 15-minute ride. At the southern end of Stanley Park is English Bay, a public beach with fantastic views of sunset over the Pacific. During the summer months, most of Vancouver’s residents spend their days and evenings around the scenic seawall that connects English Bay with Sunset Park.
Granville Street and Davie Street is where most of the nightlife takes place, with Irish pubs, cocktail lounges and nightclubs open until last call at 3 AM. Granville Street is known as Vancouver’s entertainment district, although the street has become more seedy in the past few years. Street crime, drunken brawls and random attacks have been on the rice. If you continue southward and cross the Granville Bridge, you’ll end in Granville island. Better yet, you can get here by water taxi. Granville Island is not technically an island, but a small peninsula that was once a warehouse district. Today, it’s one of Vancouverite’s favorite spot to spend the weekend, with plenty of artisanal and concept shops, theaters, seafood restaurants and a public market with gourmet deli stalls and the freshest produce from the nearby Fraser Valley. It also offers some of the best spots to take pictures of the downtown cityscape with the Burrard Bridge in frame.
English Bay might be Vancouver’s most popular beach, but the best one is actually outside the city center. Wreck Beach is located within the enormous campus grounds of the University of British Columbia (UBC), a 40-minute bus ride from downtown. Hidden behind steep cliffs, it is a 10-minute walk down curvy wooden stairs to the beach zone. The hike down is easy, but gets tiring when you want to climb back up under the sun. Stretching across 7.8 km, Wreck beach is much more tranquil and secluded compared to Vancouver’s urban beaches. The floor is sandy and the amenities here are basic. There are no concession stands. There are vendors that walk around and offer to sell cold drinks, with only cash accepted. Wreck Beach was popularized in the 1960s by the hippies, and it continuous to attract a bohemian crowd. It is Vancouver’s only clothing-optional beach, but everyone is welcome as long as they respect the naturist legacy and keep their cameras away. Even during the summer months, the water is too cold to swim in, but you can take a quick dip at most.
The UBC campus is also where you will find Vancouver’s best museum, the Museum of Anthropology. Here, you can learn about the First Nations communities that have inhabited British Colombia before the white settlers arrived. The giant Indigenous statues are carved out of wood and are awe-inspiring and rooted in the legends and mythology of the forests. There are over 200 unique first nations in BC, each with their own storytelling techniques through art. Lovers of local and international ethnography will love the exhibit room featuring tribal masks from Canada and all continents. The room is a vault of treasures with thousands of objects on display from as far as Africa and Polynesia.
Not too far away, in the Kitsilano neighborhood, is the Museum of Vancouver. This cultural center showcases Vancouver through a more modern lens. There are exhibition rooms documenting the city and its people over the past century with a focus on specific eras such as the Great Depression and the 1950’s. My personal favorite was the room housing actual neon signs from the latter era on display.
One thing not to miss when in Vancouver is the Capilano Suspension Bridge, located in the municipality of North Vancouver. The entrance to the park is $50, but it is well justified because there are very few such places in the world. This hanging meter bridge is completely suspended in the air at an elevation of 70 meters above the Capilano River. It stretches for 140 meters in a straight line. When walking on the bridge, it feels kind of like walking on a trampoline. The effect is a guaranteed adrenaline rush. It is an architectural wonder that draws over 1 million visitors annually.
After you cross the bridge, there is a forested area with another long, angular bridge that is connected by large and sturdy Douglas Fir trees. It takes about 20 minutes to walk along this path, with each part of the bridge ascending higher. The Douglas Fir trees are very tall, and the views from here are spectacular. The Capilano park illuminates beautifully at night. The best time to visit is towards the end of the daytime so that you can spend part of your evening here as well.
The third trail in the Capilano Suspension Bridge park is comprised of a hanging bridge fitted into the edge of the cliff, which is called the Cliff Walk. The path here is very narrow and intimidating, but it this part of the park where you will get the best views of the forested landscape and river below. For adventure lovers, the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park is where you are guaranteed to have the most fun when in Vancouver. It should not be missed.
Some smaller, more obscure parks in the city include Queen Elizabeth Park and the Van Dusen Botanical Gardens. They are not as famous among visitors, but are located close to one another and make for a beautiful excursion for nature lovers with a few hours to spare. Admission to Queen Elizabeth Park is completely free, and it is a great place to visit in fall or springtime, with an annual Cherry Blossom festival that takes place there. There’s also a domed conservatory with different types of birds and fish. The Van Dusen Botanical garden has over 7,000 plant species to observe. It is particularly beautiful around Christmas time, with decorations glowing brightly at nighttime.
Depending on how much time you plan to spend in Vancouver. There are several day trips that can be easily taken outside the city. The mountainous town of Whistler about 2 hours away by bus and was also the site of the 2010 Winter Olympics. The town of White Rock to the southeast of Vancouver has the longest pier in Canada, extending about 500 meters into the water. The Steveston village in Richmond Is famous for its fishing docs and fish canneries and was the site of many filming locations. There is also Fort Langley, a well-preserved town on Fraser river which dates back to the 19th century and was an important stop on Canada’s fur trade route.
Vancouver offers a great variety of outdoor adventure, culinary delights and cultural heritage. Its attractions are highly accessible thanks to reliable public transport, its modern Sky Train system and pedestrian-friendly zones. This article only touches the tip of the iceberg for first-time visitors. Depending on the time you plan to spend, there are many great neighborhoods to explore outside the downtown core, such as Mount Pleasant and Commercial Drive, each with their own unique character and things to do.
Once you’ve explored Vancouver, the next stop on your Western Canada itinerary should be to Vancouver Island its main city of Victoria. To get there, you can either fly or take a scenic ferry ride that departs from the port of Twassen, south of Richmond. The ferry ride takes about 2 hour and is an exciting and economical way to get to Victoria. There is also a parking lot on the ferry for those with a car.
Victoria: Little Britain on Vancouver Island
In contrast to the modern glass skyscraper feel of Vancouver, Victoria offers a very district cultural experience to visitors. Victoria is much smaller and serves as the province’s administrative capital. It sits on the eastern edge of Vancouver Island. Victoria’s ferry terminal is located at Schwartz Bay. From here it takes another 40 minutes by bus to reach the city center.
Victoria is a quintessentially British city. The colonial legacy here lives on, from the city’s name to the architectural influence and elegant horse carriages that roam around the city’s main attractions. It has a metro population of just under 400,000 and a much quieter and slower pace of life when compared to Vancouver.
When I visited Victoria in October 2020, I booked my two-night stay in James Bay, one of Victoria’s notable historical districts. The James Bay Inn is a very quaint boutique hotel that is within a ten minute walk to downtown. My visit happened just as COVID restrictions were easing, so I managed to get a very good rate for a spacious and comfortable room.
The building was constructed back in 1911, and it is still in operation today. The lobby and common areas feature antique feature and replica of famous paintings by Emily Carr. In fact, Emily Carr, spend her later years in the hotel and that is where she died. It is rumored that her ghost lingers in this hotel. A few blocks away is the Emily Carr house, where she was born. The house is well preserved and is open to the public as a museum and cultural center. There are walking tours around the Edwardian district of James Bay, where visitors can learn about the past and present inhabitants of its elegant little mansions.
Victoria’s Inner Harbor is the beating pulse of the city. It is a waterfront promenade area that is a perfect place to stroll and admire the parked yachts with the chic Fairmont Empress Hotel and the BC Parliament building (also known as the Legislative Assembly of British Columbia) in the background. This is where lawmakers from across the province meet. The Inner Harbor is the one spot to take a memorable panoramic picture of downtown Victoria.
The British Columbia Royal Museum is one of the province’s best museums. The museum is dedicated to the natural and human history of BC. There are plenty of fun interactive displays and ancient artefacts on display. There is a wide collection of First Nations totems carved out of red cedar trees. The museum is large, and there is an impressive life-sized replica of some historic streets and alleyways as they would have looked at the turn of the 19th century, when the city was gaining popularity and prestige over its bigger cousin Vancouver. You can also enter some of these replica homes and shops for a fully immersive and interactive experience.
While not nearly as big as Vancouver’s Chinatown, Victoria’s version is full of charm and history. It is the oldest Chinatown on the continent after San Francisco. Chinatown greets visitors with the elaborate red Gate of Harmonious Interests. Fantan Alley is the narrowest alleyway in all of North America. The shops and houses around the alley were a prime spot for harboring criminals resulting in frequent police raids on its hidden gambling and opium dens. Times have changed and the alley has become a spot drawing in curious tourists and photography lovers, with a wide array of quirky boutiques selling vinyl records, silk umbrellas and handcrafted jewelry.
You will find more trendy shopping along Johnson Street, with independent boutiques and concept stores in colorful low-rise heritage buildings. The shops are all independently-owned and sell specialty items that are hard to find anywhere else. One local shop to try while in Victoria is Rogers’ Chocolates. This chocolate maker is Canada’s oldest, having been around since 1885, and makes beautifully packaged gift boxes to take back home.
Outside the city center, the Craigdarroch Castle is impossible to miss. The mega mansion was constructed by coal baron Richard Dunsmuir. Like many during his time, Dunsmuir arrived from Scotland to seek wealth in the new world. He worked his way up from a laborer to becoming the richest man in British Columbia at the time. The four-story Victorian castle was constructed with the finest marble and granite, with stained glass windows. Inside, the main hall is adorned in floor-to-ceiling red cedar and mahogany. Visitors can wander around the 39 rooms to marvel at the opulence in which Victoria’s wealthiest family lived. The castle stands as a symbol of newfound wealth during the days of the Industrial Revolution and the Gold Rush.
Robert Dunsmuir did not live to see the castle completed. He died in it while it was still under construction, leaving it to his widow Joan. A series of unfortunate illnesses and accidents plagued the Dunsmuir family. Dunsmuir’s grandchildren and heirs to the castle could not keep up with maintenance costs. During WW1, the castle served as a military hospital as well as a college in the later years of the 20th century. It re-bought by a heritage foundation and turned into museum in 1979. The British love a good ghost story, and there are many stories of paranormal events taking place and haunting unsuspecting visitors. The Dunsmuirs’ estate and museum served as a filming location for several movies and TV shows, most notably 2016’s horror film The Boy.
After a busy day of sightseeing, one of the best places to relax and enjoy some food is at Fisherman’s Wharf. In contrast to much of Victoria’s elegant and aristocratic flair, the atmosphere here is much more casual. The wharf is made up of a dozen or so interconnected floating houses, each painted in a unique bright color. At the floor level, the houses serve as gift shops and mostly seafood restaurants and fish and chip shops. British Columbia is famous for its highly-prized Pacific salmon. At Fisherman’s Wharf, you can have a variety of fresh seafood, from fish chowder to salmon bagels and burgers at very reasonable prices. Better yet, you can top it off with a cold pint of locally-brewed lager and ice cream from one of the small floating shophouses on the wharf.
Victoria is just a starting point for visitors exploring Vancouver Island in more detail. There are many natural wonders on this land, from the Pacific Rim Natural Park Reserve to whale watching activities in Tofino on the island’s western tip. I only had two days during my time in Victoria, but it would have taken me at least a week to explore all of its highlights.
Having covered Vancouver and Victoria in British Columbia, no trip to Western Canada is complete without covering Calgary and the resort town of Banff in Alberta. You fly into Calgary via Victoria’s or Vancouver’s airport. The 90-minute flight costs somewhere in the 150-250 range — depending on the season, airline and amount of luggage. This route is serviced by the low-cost Flair and West Jet airlines, as well as Air Canada, the national carrier. VIA Rail, Canada’s train network does not have a Vancouver to Calgary route, which could have been a scenic way to travel. There is a bus service, but it takes close to 2 days to complete this trip. The best option to get to Calgary from Vancouver or Victoria is to fly.
Calgary: The Prairie Cowboy Flavor of Canada
As soon as you land in Calgary, you notice how the topography and climate are different from British Colombia. Calgary is where the prairies begin and stretch eastward across the three provinces of Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba. I visited Calgary in late October 2020 in the peak of fall season and just before the cold Canadian winter arrived.
Getting from the airport to the city center is easy, and there is a shuttle bus that takes you right downtown. I managed to find a great deal at the Hyatt Regency, where I booked my stay for 2 nights. It is within walking distance of most attractions in the downtown. The C train is the city’s mode of public transportation, but most residents tend to drive.
As the largest city in Alberta and fifth largest in Canada, Calgary has been a boomtown city. Its economy has been prosperous, and it largely relies on the oil and gas sector. Alberta is sometimes called ‘The Texas of Canada’ owing to its history of cattle ranching and oil industry. The Asian influence is much smaller here, and the largest cultural event is the annual Calgary Stampede, which is a rode-themed festival. The Calgary Stampede takes place in July and attracts over a million spectators who come to watch the rodeo, Chuckwagon racing, parades and country music performances.
The downtown core is modern, clean and safe. Even I didn’t see as many pedestrians as I normally would in Vancouver, the downtown core is very walkable. The entire city is flat. The buildings are big and shiny, with many of them connected by a bridge-like and temperature-controlled glass corridor. Winters here are harsh and snowy, so the towers and office buildings was designed for people to spend as little time outside as possible.
The main street of commercial activity in Calgary is the Stephen Avenue Walk. This pedestrian street has many chain stores and boutique shops within older brownstone buildings. Additionally, there are many cafes and restaurants to choose from. This street is a showpiece of the city’s efforts to revitalize business and tourism within the downtown core, with some colorful street art and modern sculptures decorating the High Street. Nonetheless, as soon as evening sets, activity in the downtown core is usually diminished as people gather in more residential-type neighborhoods.
Apart from the Calgary Stampede, the city has been working on positioning itself as a cultural hotspot in Western Canada. There are two museums downtown worth checking out.
The Glenbow Museum features a collection of modern art and pays homage to Alberta’s indigenous and Prairie influences. The museum closed for renovations in 2021 and is set to reopen in 2026. The museum is located in a modern building, with a giant, multi-level chandelier as a centerpiece. Here, you can admire paintings depicting prairie nature and village and First Nations artefacts from the Blackfoot Confederacy tribes that inhabit this part of Canada. There is also a Stampede-themed room with displays around cowboy culture and the rodeo.
Studio Bell or the National Music Center is a museum dedicated to Canadian Recording Artists. Calgary is Canada’s country music capital. The Bell Center honors Canadian contribution to music across all genres. Exhibitions feature interactive games with musical instruments, studio equipment and costumes worn by Canadian music celebrities like Shania Twain and K.D. Lang, who actually hails from Calgary.
On my second day in Calgary, I ventured out outside downtown to explore Heritage Park, which was about 30 minutes by bus. Heritage Park is an open-air museum with reconstructed houses of what the early urban settlements in Alberta and the prairies looked like. It is like a giant movie set, with dozens of small buildings depicting western saloons, barbershops and bakeries. You can step inside some of those houses to fully immerse yourself in the Western Canadian experience and travel back in time. There is also a large exhibit hall showcasing vintage automobiles and gas stations artwork from the early 20th century – a tribute to Alberta’s oil and gas heritage. When finished with the displays, take a free train around the park as it circles around a blue lake. The views are particularly dazzling when the blue water combines with the bright, golden yellow fields surrounding it.
Calgary is often overlooked by tourists. Some only use it as a stop overnight before heading to Banff. My two-night stay in Calgary was very enjoyable. It offers something very distinct and authentically ‘country’ that you can no longer find a major Canadian city and provides a balanced variety when combined with the more temperate, multicultural Vancouver. I also managed to use this time to catch up with old friends who had moved back to Calgary.
Getting from Calgary to Banff is relatively easy. There are many busses that depart from either downtown or the airport, and the journey takes less than 90 minutes.
Banff and Lake Louise: Canada’s Premier Resort Destination
Nestled high in the Rocky Mountains that split British Columbia from Alberta, the resort town of Banff is the most beautiful spot in Canada. Banff was founded in 1885 and is blessed with gorgeous mountain views, lakes and waterfalls and vast areas of untouched wilderness. This has made it Canada’s most popular destination for a holiday among Canadians from all across the country.
I booked my stay in Banff at Irwin’s Mountain Inn, which is located on the town’s central Banff Avenue. The room was very comfortable, and I managed to get it for under $120 per night. During peak season, it is impossible to get accommodation in Banff for under $300. Luckily, I came in October 2020, which is considered low season, so Banff was much more affordable and less crowded. Upon check in at Irwin’s Mountain Inn, I saw a deer running around the avenue and stopping just outside the hotel. It was a beautiful welcome to my stay in Banff.
Stretching a few kilometers, Banff Avenue is the main street in this town of about 7,000 people. The population is comprised of locals who live in the village permanent, as well as the scores of temporary residents who work in the tourism and hospitality sector. Banff Avenue is where you will find most shops, hotels and restaurants. As Canada’s leading tourist destination, the choice of dining options is abundant.
Alberta is known for its highly-prized beef, owing to its history of cattle ranching. Here you can get some of the best steak in North America. Prices for food here tend to be on the higher since the town lives entirely off tourism. My favorite restaurant in Calgary is the Grizzly house, an alpine-themed eatery is very cozy. The interior is decorated like an eclectic Swiss-chalet, with preserved heads of deer and bison sticking out of the dark wooden walls and a collection of colorful totem poles. The Grizzly house offers a selection of fondue, as well as elk and Alberta beef.
There are many souvenir shops selling handmade Indigenous artefacts such as warm moccasins and carved ceremonial masks. Handmade Indigenous art in Canada tends to be expensive, and you can pay up to a few thousand dollars for a well-made tribal mask. You can also buy more typical Canadiana souvenirs such as boxes of smoked salmon, comfortable blankets with moose or bear drawings and Maple Syrup. The Maple Tree holds a lot of significance to Canadians, and its leaf decorates the Canadian flag. Maple Syrup is extracted from the tree and is used as a natural sweetener in drinks and cookies.
As if through perfect symmetry, Banff Avenue dissects the magnificent view of Cascade Mountain in the distance right in the middle. The effect is very panoramic and there is no shortage of pictures that can be taking from every angle on Banff Avenue. On a clear day, the sun reflects beautifully on the snow-capped mountain. There is a bridge further down that crosses the Bow River and leads to the exclusive Banff Springs Hotel. The hotel is famous for many reasons, among which is its indoor spa with heated mineral pools. There are 3 popular outdoor hot springs that are open to the public which at the time were closed due to pandemic measures.
The town is surrounded by pristine wilderness and comprises the Banff National Park, an area within the rocky mountains that covers over 6,500 kilometers square with coniferous forests, lakes and glaciers. There are various camping grounds for summer visitors, as well as three famous ski slopes. Taking a gondola up in Banff National Park gives an unparalleled view of the six mountain ranges at an elevation of over 2,000 km above sea level.
I booked a walking ghost spotting tour on my first night in Banff to discover this historical town’s urban legends and spooky places. Our guide showed up for the tour in a witch’s hat. She was very funny and knowledgeable of Banff’s history. The tour lasted about 2 hours as we walked around the town at night, stopping at landmarks that have had spooky and mysterious occurrences. The town has hosted millions of visitors, some celebrities and seasonal workers throughout the past century. While most left with happy memories, others had much more gloomy, if not outright tragic experiences. The most famous of those creepy legends is the sighting of the ghost bride at the Fairmont Banff Springs. Hotel guests and workers have reported seeing the shadow of a veiled woman descending the hotel’s main staircase. It is alleged to be the phantom of a young bride who tripped down the stairs and died on her wedding night. Since it was opened in 1888, there have been murders and other unfortunate events, earning the Fairmont Banff Springs the title of Canada’s most haunted hotel. Still, that hasn’t deterred its many guests who pay as much as a thousand dollars per night for their room. If they’re lucky, they might even encounter a few ghosts during their stay.
The next day, I was up early to catch the bus to Lake Louise. The 40 minute shuttle bus ride cost $35 for a return ride. On our way there, we got to experience the season’s very first snowfall. Arriving at the lake, words and images cannot describe the beauty of Lake Louise. I managed to see it at the best possible time, before the lake froze and with a backdrop of snow and green spruce trees. The turquoise blue of the lake looks incredible against the white snow accumulating on the shore. The mountains clearly reflect on the surface of the lake, creating geometrical patterns of beauty that only nature can create. Lake Louise is by far the most beautiful lake I have seen, and Banff National Park is the most gorgeous area of Canada.
At Lake Louise, there are several trails that can be taken around the lake. There is also another Fairmont Hotel right at the shore that is restricted to hotel guests. If you come here later in the winter, the lake freezes and turns a complete white. This makes it an ideal spot for winter games and sleigh rides. During my visit, the were barely any people, and I felt like I had vast areas of the lake and trails to myself. However, depending on the time of your visit, Lake Louise can get very crowded and less of a magical experience.
Once back in Banff town, I took an afternoon walk down Bow River to see Bow Falls. The waterfalls are relatively small, but lovely. There are wooden stairs for better views at the top. They are only within a few minutes’ walk from Banff Avenue and are great place for a quick stroll while in town.
My journey to Alberta was coming to an end, and I was ready to go back to Vancouver the next day via Calgary airport. A comprehensive Western Canada trip can be done well in 10-14 days, with a variety of cities, mountains and prairie land to explore. It is the most picturesque part of Canada and is packed with attractions for tourists to see.
Western Canada Pros:
· The nature is spectacular
· Low pollution levels
· Highly-developed infrastructure
· Relatively safe
· Big international community
Western Canada Cons:
· Can be cost prohibitive
· The weather can be challenging, depending on time of visit
